Day
One
The great outdoors. Dontcha just love it? The trees,
the birds, the...er wild flowers...yes, that’s all very well but you can only
enjoy nature’s wonders for so long right? That’s where the Wilderness Festival
comes in. Set in some of the most beautiful countryside England’s got to offer
it’s a three day orgy (not literally...although I did see one young couple
getting jiggy behind a tree) of food, music, theatre, cinema, debate, cricket,
foraging, skinny dipping...all of which is still wonderfully free of the big
name BRANDING that sucks the heart and soul out of so many other festivals.
Last year saw its glorious debut and for the follow up the organisers ramped up
the magic even further, inviting Mr Wayne Hemmingway’s vintage festival to the
party too.
I’m not generally one for getting up on stage but
somehow thanks to the Wilderness spirit within five minutes of arriving on site
I ended up on stage with Aussie oddball Mal Webb. For some inexplicable reason
I decided to start quoting William Wordsworth in a throaty rasp which Mal
recorded, mixed and rapped over, getting me to add a series of other ‘sounds’
that he looped as a backing track. I’m always in awe of anyone who can do this
kind of thing live and how the hell he got a tune out of my deranged touretting
I’ll never know.
King Charles (who does a pretty good job of looking
like his namesake) got the Friday afternoon crowd in the mood with his own
brand of classy sing-along pop. It was his imaginative reboot of Billy Joel’s
We Didn’t Start The Fire that provided one of the first great moments of the
weekend though, with several thousand festival goers belting out the chorus in
the sunshine. Yes...sunshine. Somehow beating the odds this year the whole
weekend was pretty much wall to wall sunshine. Miraculous.
One of the joys of great festivals is the mix of
people you get to meet and day one bought random encounters with a guy doing a
Ph.D in medieval Italian literature at a beer tasting in the Real Ale tent (hmmmm...free
beer), his girlfriend who writes a fashion column for the Aussie equivalent of
Cosmo, artist Emma Tooth and her film director hubbie Owen etc etc etc. Wilderness
is an overwhelmingly friendly place in fact and for three days there wasn’t
even a hint of trouble. Not one bit. Which, given the fact that festival goers
are generally a well ‘refreshed’ bunch, is pretty incredible really.
Back to the music and Lianne La Havas impressed with
Forget, her stabbing 21st Century soul pop classic and ode to an
ex-boyfriend. Ouch. Hell hath no fury like a pop star scorned. Feeling in need
of more free booze I wandered over to the Ardbeg van for a refreshing whisky or
two and a seemingly impromptu tune from rising folk star and custodian of
traditional folk gypsy songs Sam Lee. That’s another sign of a great festival,
all the other stuff that goes on away from the big stages, and you could
honestly spend the whole weekend just checking these out without feeling in the
slightest bit short changed.
Next up and Crystal Fighters well and truly cemented
their reputation as one of THE great festival bands du jour before the hardest
working woman in showbiz, Sharon Jones and the Dap Kings led the crowd through
a sweat drenched lesson in dance crazes of the 60s and 70s from the boogaloo to
the funky chicken. Boy that lady can shake a tail feather...
Once the main stage shuts down for the night the
action moves over to a magical wooded area that’s pretty much a festival of its
own. This year Future Cinema – a company dedicated to making cinema going more
of a ‘live event’ – had erected a giant movie screen and stage. Friday was
Bugsy Malone night and all day a cast of actors had been running all over the
site talking all wise guy like ...badda be badda bing...as an appetiser to the
full on live show, a hour or so of skits, stand up and dance numbers.
It’s a
great idea, breaking down the celluloid wall and adding that little extra that
gives you more of a reason to prise your arse off the sofa, away from your
flatscreen/surround sound womb and out into the real world again. Away from the
cinema there was a roller disco, soul casino and Fat Sam’s Speakeasy...an
unfeasibly glamorous venue with a bar, wooden dance floor, chandeliers and full
swing dance band. It was the kind of vision you normally need Class A’s for at
a festival...but nope...it was really there...like someone had plonked a piece
of 1920’s New York slap bang in the middle of the Oxfordshire countryside.
The
Wilder-best (see what I did there?) – Top 5 Moments From Day One
(1) Mal Webb’s improv rap
(2) Discovering the real ale tent also sold 7.5% scrumpy...oh
dear
(3) Random chats with lovely strangers
(4) Crystal Fighters’ set in the sun
(5) The whole Bugsy Malone / speakeasy thang
Day
Two
Quite how you could do the ‘downward dog’ after a
night in a speakeasy beats me (I was busy attempting to prevent the ‘upward
hurl’) but there were a surprisingly large group of yoga students pulling some
spine cracking moves at 9am. Having slept on a roll mat that was slightly
thinner than tissue paper it was enough for me to walk by this stage. Still this
gave me an excuse to sit and watch a cricket match for a while replete with
Pimms and free cucumber sarnies for the spectators. This being Wilderness the
match was presided over by a cross dressing umpire of course but still, it was
recognisably cricket. Sort of.
Often the first acts of the day at any festival
reveal some hidden gems and Oxford’s Alphabeat Backwards – a joyful boy/girl
fronted pop band were one such discovery trading in the kind of dance that make
you dance like no one’s watching.
There’s so much more to Wilderness than the music
though, which is how I found myself munching some wild mint on a foraging walk with
Robin Harford. Pretty much all of us think our food comes from some giant
factory somewhere...and we’re pretty much right. It does. We eat a minute
percentage of the plants that are edible and in just an hour’s wandering Robin
pointed out a good half dozen things to masticate (steady now). Perhaps more
than anything else this weekend this was the moment when the festival literally
lived up to its name. A truly eye opening glimpse of the natural world that
most of us never notice.
At just 18 Jake Bugg’s already shaping up to be
something special. He’s still young and seems a little nervy at times but there
are pleasing touches of Phil Ochs, Paul Simon and underrated Mersey combo The
Coral in his music and in the last 12 months or so his tracks have pretty much
become a staple on 6 Music’s playlist. A hairs on the back of the neck raising
solo run through Country Song and the rockabilly-tinged Trouble Time and new
single Taste It all hit the spot proving that this is one festival Bugg that’s well
worth catching.
Hopped over to the bandstand for Mahalia’s set, one
of those rare singers that make it all seem so effortless with Let The World
See the Light’s acoustic soul matching the sun drenched setting. Festival
bliss.
Indie folkers Stornoway provided one of the weekend’s anthems with Free
The Battery Human before dedicating I Saw You Blink to the brave souls about to
attempt the world’s biggest skinny dip. Yes. We’re back to that infectious
festival spirit again...how else would you explain the sight of dozens of
people of various shapes and sizes happily ripping off their kit and plunging
into the muddy water eh?
I was tempted for a moment but I was standing behind
the dippers and feared that all the blokes could all be hung like racehorses.
Imagine brushing past something in the water, grabbing hold of it and yanking
it out thinking you’ve just caught a giant eel? Nasty. Foraging for wild food
is one thing but chomping on another man’s meat...I’ll draw the line there
thank you very much.
Back over at the ‘wooded’ area and Wayne
Hemmingway’s Vintage posse had taken over from Fat Sam and the gang. The
Speakeasy was now transformed into The Torch Club, hosting Natty Congaroo and
His Flames of Rhythm. Aye carumba. Cue muchos swinging and jiving, all presided
over by Viv The Spiv a guy who plays an authentic blackmarketeer from the 1940’s...think
George Cole from the original St Trinian’s movies.
Back over at the main stage instrumental boy / girl
guitar duo Rodriguez and Gabriela were doing their thing. There’s no denying
their talent but headliners for Saturday night? Hmmmm...not so sure. I like a
bit of the old instrumentals as much as the next man but somehow Saturday night
says ‘party’ to me and Rod n’Gabs aren’t that kind of band so it was swiftly
back over to the Torch Club again for some vintage party music courtesy of
Ondrey Havelka and the Melody Makers. Classy. After a mug of tea on the tea
bus...literally a vintage London bus serving tea and cake...I just managed to
heave myself over to the London Folk Guild tent for the City Shanty Band.
Possibly the only London based pop punk shanty band in existence. Granted it’s
a niche market but any group that can keep me up at that time of
night...well...morning by this point...can’t be bad.
The
Wilder-best – Top 5 Moments From Day Two
(1) Robin Harford’s foraging walk...truly
inspirational
(2) Jake Bugg
(3) Mahalia on the bandstand
(4) The naked skinny dipping thing
(5) Night time at the Torch Club...impossibly glam
for a festival
Day
Three
Ouch. My head. That’s what a diet of real ale /
scrumpy / red wine and sausage rolls does to you. COFFEE! NEED COFFEE!!!!
Happily there’s a coffee tasting session on over at the Thyme tent held by an
enthusiastic chap (and champion Barista) called Jose. Delicious...and now I
know how to use a cafetiere properly...it’s more involved than you think.
Add
hot water first, then the coffee. Stir gently. Pop in the plunger. Let it rest
for a minute, then slowly, ever so slowly depress it. Voila. What next? How
about some medieval music and a ‘class in merriment’ with Circulus’ main man
Michael Tyack over at The Idler Academy?
I was particularly taken by a 17th century folk tune called
Mr Black’s Maggot...who says pop’s a 20th
century invention eh? Back to the future with super cute Aussie pop band
Sheppard, three siblings (one boy, two girls) and three non siblings. 90’s
nostalgia-fest Cheese On Toast and the Beatle-ish summertime singalong Shine My
Way were both so instantly addictive that I ended up going to see ‘em again at
the bandstand later that day. Never heard of them before but the world needs
more quality pop like this right now. When pretty much every track sounds like
a hit you know you’re on to a good thing.
I’ll freely admit that most of Sunday’s ‘big acts’
Grant Lee Buffalo, Giant Giant Sand and Wilco had pretty much passed me by over
the years (and all of them have been around for a while). I’d neatly filed them
all away in a big bag marked ‘pleasant Americana’ and was quite happy to leave
them there. Happily each one of them proved to be a real surprise in one way or
another. Grant Lee Buffalo’s blue collar Americana recalled Springsteen and
Neil Young (maybe with a dash of REM thrown in for good measure) in fine form.
They’ve seemingly got two kinds of track, the heads down belting down the
highway ones and the curled up in the corner of a scuzzy bar staring at the
bottom of a beer glass ones. If that sounds a little dismissive it’s not meant
to be. Belting down the highway to a scuzzy bar sounds like my perfect day.
Perhaps living up to their name Giant Giant Sand
seem to have a squillion members (well at least 11) which unsurprisingly took
quite a while to set up and soundcheck. It was worth the wait though. Fronted
by Howe Gelb they come across like a pretty decent alt-country band at first
with Gelb’s lo-key half mumbled vocals lulling you gently in before huge great
bursts of anthemic noise blew your brains out. Last track of their all too
short set stole the best song of the weekend award by an alt-country mile. Carinito’s
a sprawling epic that embraces Mexican, classical, hi-life, folk...hell, why
not shove everything into the mix eh? Truly
awesome. If this is anything to go by the band’s new album (a double called
Tucson) must be a cracker.
Over at the Folk Guild Tent and The Miserable Rich
were doing what they do so well, getting audiences all swoony and misty eyed over
their magnificent chamber pop. Lead Miserablist James de Malplaquet sounds like
a world weary angel making break up anthem and set highlight Let Me Fade
simultaneously one of the most heart rending and strangely uplifting songs of
the weekend.
Jason Pierce’s Spiritualized divide opinion between
those who find it all a little dull, kind of Primal Screm-ish without a
pulse...and those who lose themselves in space rock heaven. The bits of the set
that I saw didn’t change the camp I belong to...you can draw your own
conclusions from that. Ahem.
The last band on the big stage did change my
opinions though. I knew of Wilco’s work with Billy Bragg and was kinda
expecting a nice chilled out country-ish set so the electronic knob
twiddling and rocking out came as a bit
of a surprise. Wilco’s frontman, Jeff Tweedy, is clearly a bit of a musical
magpie with the set echoing everyone from The Byrds to Bowie, Costello to the
Carpets (Inspiral that is). “This is one of the few festivals we feel
comfortable playing” he drawled mid set. It showed to. Admittedly the crowd
thinned a little as the set went on, again they’re not the most obvious
headline band in the world, but the faithful and newly converted lapped it up.
Back over in Vintage la la land Asian Dub Foundation
were soundtracking French film La Haine in another one of Future Cinema’s
presentations, followed up with a suitably gritty live slot (rap/spoken word/ a
little political polemic), whilst down in a hidden hollow to the side of the
Torch Club the hardy were still partying the night away. I’d neglected to head
down there on Friday or Saturday night, distracted as I was by all the other
stuff going on, but it’s another festival within a festival world down there,
hosting late night parties for the beautiful people. Oh so much to see and so
little time. That’s my big quibble about Wilderness. It’s just too darn short.
You’d need a month there to do it justice. Other festivals may promise a truly
unique experience but Wilderness really delivers.
The
Wilder-best – Top 5 Moments From Day Three
(1) Easy Jose’s coffee tasting sesh
(2) Sheppard’s sets...both of ‘em. Aussie pop
perfection
(3) Giant Giant Sand’s Carinito – tune of the
weekend
(4) The Miserable Rich in the Folk Guild
Stage...always an emotional experience
(5) The two huge pork baguettes from the Charlbury
School stand – a much need pork injection...oh dear...that didn’t sound
right...